Finding the fundamentals of culture

On forging meaning through food

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  • Published 20221101
  • ISBN: 978-1-922212-74-0
  • Extent: 264pp
  • Paperback (234 x 153mm), eBook

THE SURGEON PEERS at my scan, then looks up at me.

‘I can fix that,’ he says, pointing two fingers at my throat. ‘We cut a seven-centimetre hole in the front of your neck, then push your windpipe out of the way,’ he says as he gestures left with his fingers. ‘We push your oesophagus the other way,’ and again the two fingers pointed at my Adam’s apple waggle. ‘Then we go in deep.’

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Recipe for success

EssayFans used to approach my grandmother, Margaret, at events or book signings, professing their adoration and proudly presenting their 1969 yellow-bound original of The Margaret Fulton Cookbook. They’d tell stories about the book’s place in their hearts – it had been given to them when they moved out of home, or when they’d married, or it had been passed through two generations. Margaret would smile sweetly and flick through the pages as though looking for something. Then, often, she would close the book firmly and look mock-crossly up at them (I say ‘up’ because she was usually seated, but was also only just over five-foot-tall). ‘You’ve never cooked from this book. Where are the splatters, the markings of the kitchen, the stuck-together pages?’

Changing palates

In ConversationWe were accidental arrivals, I think is the best way to put it. My parents were refugees from Poland. They were Jewish citizens of Poland and they basically flipped a coin and made a run for it.

The long supper 

FictionNadia herself was unremarkable. She spoke little and staked little claim. She ate in moderation (always in private). She exercised moderately (always indoors). Books were the exception; those, she binged.

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