ReportageSMALL FIRES STREAK the savanna beneath me, as the land is worked and cleaned. The gentle smoke on the horizon is sign of a healthy country. In the distance, disappearing into a soft haze, lies the rugged stone country...

MemoirTHE GUNS WERE the first to catch my eye. One, two, three of them, looming larger than life on the rock wall. One sits above a figure in white kaolin clay, hands on waist, pipe in mouth, broad-brimmed hat:...